MINUS THE SIGNATURE
The fall ’98 womenswear shows here began today with the unveiling of two long awaited collections: the first ready to wear line from the venerable leather goods house Louis Vuitton and a replica louis vuitton handbags new vision for sportswear at Hermes. These two fashion giants are in the midst of aesthetic upheavals. The challenges facing them could not be more different.
Both houses succeeded today in turning out beautiful clothes. Both failed, by varying degrees, to reinvigorate or in the case of Vuitton, cheap louis vuitton bags from china to reinvent themselves.
Vuitton, part of the LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton luxury goods conglomerate, has a rich history of producing signature leather goods such as wallets, purses and steamer trunks for a wealthy replica louis vuitton bags and pampered clientele. Over the years, however, the company’s distinctive LV monogram became a symbol of decadence and ostentation. In the ’80s, particularly in the United States, Vuitton accessories acquired a nouveau riche odor. Eventually, Louis Vuitton became the 1:1 replica handbags victim of relentless copying. Fake Vuitton purses and caps and backpacks and even jogging suits could be purchased on street corners in virtually any major American city. The company never reached the financial low of Italy’s Gucci, but in the United States its logo was little more than a wry joke.
Thanks to a tough crackdown on counterfeiters and an aggressive marketing campaign touting the company’s history and sophistication, Louis Vuitton regained some of its old grandeur. The addition of a ready to wear line is the next step in the rebuilding of the image. replica louis vuitton American designer Marc Jacobs has been given that task.
Without the help of a ready to wear tradition or an expansive archive, Jacobs’s challenge is to establish, out of the blue www.dolabuy.su , a distinctive Louis Vuitton style. By any measure, it is a daunting job.
What Jacobs fake louis bag showed today was a beautiful collection of luxury separates full of intriguing details and with a sportswear sensibility. It is impossible to fake designer bags say whether the collection looks like Vuitton. What does Vuitton look like? There is no precedent.
The collection, however, does reflect the sensibility that Jacobs has established in his own collection, which he shows in New York. If there are differences, they are subtle. It is almost impossible to discern why an olive silk shirt with a standing collar and gathered waist bears a Louis Vuitton label and not a Marc Jacobs tag.
If the quintessential Jacobs customer is 30, then perhaps the Vuitton customer is 35. The skirts he showed this afternoon are long, sometimes slit and sometimes easy to move in, thanks to the give of cashmere. His T shirts are actually double layered sleeveless tops of opaque cashmere and sheer chiffon. Blouses have extra wide cuffs and a seam that circles the torso. Sweaters have oblong elbow patches and some have four buttons on the cuff. His outerwear is made of rubberized cotton or belted cashmere. And his palette includes black and white, pale gray cheap louis vuitton bags from china uk , Bing cherry red, chocolate brown and olive.
The company pulled out all the stops for the presentation, which was held at the Grande Halle de La Villette in a park on the fringes of Paris. Waiters offered champagne and the space was large enough to accommodate a multitude of editors and buyers from around the world. Initially, however, the collection will be available only in select Vuitton stores.
Jacobs, whose final bow was more like a quick nod, did not bring Louis Vuitton into the world of ready to wear with an explosive collection. He did, however, provide the company with a foundation on which to build. One hopes that as its clothing design business grows, Vuitton eventually will take on a life and personality of its own. For now, the Louis Vuitton point of view is the Marc Jacobs philosophy with subtitles.
Hermes took an entirely different tack in introducing the first ready to wear collection from its new designer, Martin Margiela. Instead of an enormous presentation in front of the full complement of industry insiders, the company cut the size of its audience from some 2,000 people to about 300. And instead of a huge, impersonal auditorium, it opted for the intimate rooms of its Faubourg Saint Honore flagship store. It seemed either that the company was nervous about how the collection would be received or it was using the velvet rope philosophy that exclusivity replica designer handbags breeds desire. Perhaps it was a bit of both.
The choice of Margiela to take over design duties at Hermes was unorthodox. Hermes has built its reputation Perfect Quality Louis Vuitton Replica on breathtakingly expensive classics for the horsey set. One of the company’s Kelly bags named after Grace Kelly, who favored the valise like purses with the miniature gold padlocks runs about $5,000. And that’s the inexpensive version.
Margiela, a Belgian who came of age with contemporaries such as Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, is known for his eccentric, experimental approach to clothes. He has deconstructed blazers and put them back together slightly askew. He has created skirts out of old scarves, painted vintage jeans, made a dress with no back panel. He wears a lab coat and treats his signature collections as one ongoing science project.
In many ways, Margiela’s job was much easier than Jacobs’s. Margiela did not have to invent a language; he only had to say something new. What he said often was beautiful, but it was brief.
He presented only 39 looks. (Jacobs, by comparison, showed 50.) Within that set, there were probably five ideas. His coats in camel or charcoal gray have a removable lining of cashmere and satin that can be worn separately as a cardigan. Blazer collars have an underlining of tuxedo satin. Crew neck pullovers are reversible and turtlenecks have a removable collar. A low V neck Fake Louis Vuitton Replica Bags cashmere pullover is a cross between a sweater and a peacoat. Sheer “rainproof veils” are worn over a suit like an evening coat. Trousers are full with both flat fronts and pleats.
Margiela also incorporated accessories into the presentation. There are pendants created from the Hermes leather key pouch and watches with double wrapping straps.
These clothes and accessories, aimed at the sensibility and the bank account of a more mature and established woman, were shown on models who were older and sturdier. One had some gray hair. One wore her glasses on the runway. Others simply made eye contact with the audience and looked blissfully alive, aware and interested in what they were doing.
Margiela has something relevant to say replica louis vuitton handbags here high quality replica handbags china , but he seemed to stop after uttering only a few words. How surprising. This is a designer who, in his signature collection, seems able to offer limitless commentary on something as simple as a T shirt. He can play with its shape, reconfigure the armholes, insert cutouts, remove whole panels. In his presentation tonight, the designer seemed to focus on a few ideas, as is his practice, but because of the constraints of the Hermes tradition could not fully explore them. At times, the repetitive collection looked as if it was the creation of a man frustrated by his boundaries.
Other established houses will be presenting collections by new designers this season. Michael Kors will debut at Celine. Narciso Rodriguez will unveil his inaugural collection for Loewe. And Andrew Gn will show his first line under the Balmain label.
This season in Paris we will see if the Young Turks can revitalize or rescue the Old Guard. CAPTION: The Hermes look, as interpreted by Martin Margiela, featured long coats lined with cashmere and satin. CAPTION: Beyond bags: White figured prominently in the new Louis Vuitton collection designed by Marc Jacobs. CAPTION: It was a day of debuts in Paris as Louis Vuitton’s ready to wear line, left, designed by Marc Jacobs, and Hermes’ line, right, by Martin Margiela, had their coming out.